July 23, 2010 Weingut Fred Loimer
Weingut Fred Loimer Langenlois Terrassen Grüner Veltliner
It’s white hot. We have been in sultry summer sunshine. Not the heatwave (thankfully) that seems to have overtaken much of the Northern Hemisphere, but we have had our days. Days that call for something clean and cool and crisp.
Loimer Langenlois Terrassen Grüner Veltliner 2007
Crystal gold to the eye, with aromatics that are diamond hard, enlivened by a little citrus embedded in the minerals. With the glass tipped it shines: stone fruit edging toward creaminess…a mineral depth both savoury and piquant…lively acidity that is never intrusive…considerable weight and texture coating the palate. And a finish that solidifies the experience and draws you back repeatedly. Decidedly cool and clean and crisp. $$
Weingut Fred Loimer, situated in the Kampal wine region, is an hour west of Vienna. Nearby is Langenlois, the preeminent wine town in Austria. The newest attraction in Langenlois is the architecturally distinctive Loisium, built to celebrate the range and quality of local wines.
FRED LOIMER has been single-minded from the outset. After studying viticulture in Austria, he spent time in wineries in both Germany and California. When in 1997 he took over the family estate, he was not content with anything less than a major leap forward in the quality of wine the 22 hectares were producing. Conversion to biodynamics, begun in 2005, has marked the most significant step in that direction.
Fully half of Loimer’s production is that most Austrian of white varietals — grüner veltliner. The 40-year-old vines for this top level bottling thrive on the combination of geology and weather to be found in Kampal. The base rock is predominately gneiss. It is topped by soils of clay and sand, occasionally marked by chalk. Of considerable importance, too, is a covering of loess dust laid down during the Ice Age. The climate brings intense summer daytime temperatures, with nights that see the cooling influence of the nearby rivers.
Loimer’s is a distinctive winery, not only for the quality of its production, but as well for the pairing of an historic vaulted brick cellar (formally belonging to Castle Haindorf and dating to the 19th century) and the ultramodern, minimalist Wineloft tasting room and winery office built over it. The combination is in keeping with Loimer’s philosophy of taking the best of wine-making tradition and blending it with the best of modern viticulture.
The Wineloft is distinguished by its 8-metre tasting table, yet Loimer has said, “…sometimes formal tastings go against the grain with me. Wine is about having fun; enjoying life.” When asked what most holds his interest in wine, he replied, “The stories a wine can tell, about people, countries and centuries.”
To that is raised a distinguished glass of his grüner veltliner! In cellar and in sun.